More Silk Road memories

At the hotel in Bukhara (Uzbekistan), there was a little art gallery.  This man - Vafo Barno Narziy - had done all sorts of paintings and portraits of the local area and people he'd met.  We saw this picture and immediately loved it.

The boy negotiated a price with the man, then we had to figure it out how to get it a) safely through the rest of Uzbekistan and Russia, and b) home in one piece. We decided the best thing to do would be to have it unframed, and we'd get it framed again when we got home.

So that is what we did and that is what it looks like now.

Silk Road Day 23: Khiva

This morning we arrived in Urgench and hopped on the buses that have been following us through Uzbekistan and drove to Khiva. Apparently the bus drivers are both from Urgench so they have been slowly making their way home as they take us around.

Khiva is an ancient city more than 2,500 years old and recently restored by UNESCO. 500 people still live inside the ancient city walls. Being Sunday, the market was open and I think 250,000 Uzbekis were there.

Being so obviously blonde, Kendall and I were besieged by students wanting to take our photos. At first we refused, thinking they wanted us to take photos of them, and then hassle us for money (a typical scam in this part of the world) but we eventually realised they were just curious. They wanted to know our names, where we were from, how old we were, did we have any children, they wanted to tell us their names... it was exhausting but very funny. As soon as they figured out we were Australian they'd hop around like kangaroos.

We had morning tea at a traditional tea house and it was delicious. After more wandering around and people watching we had lunch at the Khan's Summer Palace and then got back on the train.

Crazy hat party after dinner was hilarious; Kendall's impersonation of an Uzbeki rap star (Hello Book!*) had everyone rolling in the aisles. Gained an hour as we travel further west, and we were warned to be ready for border security as we cross the border back into Kazakhstan in the morning.

*What every local vendor would say to try and get you to look as his wares.

Silk Road Day 22: Bukhara

After a surprisingly good night's sleep on the usual hard beds, and a dodgy breakfast in the hotel, we set off for our sightseeing. We visited the Ark (where the Emirs used to live) and the bug pit where they used to throw prisoners.

We then had to take an emergency taxi ride back to the hotel because something I ate a breakfast did not agree with me. Thankfully we made it back in time and all was okay eventually.

I decided not to risk venturing out in the afternoon so we stayed in the hotel and read, and I caught up on some emails. Thankfully we were back on the train for dinner, another delicious Russian meal. I don't know how they make such great food in such a tiny space!

Silk Road Day 21: Samarkand - Bukhara

We left Samarkand at 10am and travelled to Bukhara on the train - a pleasant and easy trip which included a delicious lunch. From there it all went downhill. Our local guide - Raisa - talked at us in a relentless monotone for the whole afternoon, failing to draw breath even for a second. Kendall and I refused to take headsets on the visit to another bloody mosque, we were so sick of the sound of her voice.

We then checked into our hotel - built in 1961 under Soviet power, no doubt* - and it is truly dreadful. Our room is tiny and smells as though it hasn't been opened since 1961. Our double bed is two single beds pushed together. Which would be okay, but they are different heights.

Tonight we had dinner at a Persian restaurant inside a Maddressah. The floor show went on for an hour before we were allowed to eat. To me, the music was noise but some enjoyed it, I guess. When can we get back on the train?

* It seemed our guide had some obsession with the fact that Uzbekistan used to be part of the Soviet Union. Every single building and every event seemed to be built in 1961, or happened in 1961, under the time of Soviet Power. She said it so much we started to laugh about it.

Silk Road Day 20: Samarkand

This morning we went to Registan Square to see it properly in daylight. It is an amazing sight. And the weather co-operated with sunshine and a lovely blue sky.

(Panoramic shot - six photos stitched together)

A dodgy policeman offered to let some of us climb to the top of one of the minarets that is off-limits to the public, for the enormous amount of 5,000 sums each. That's about $3USD. We ended up paying $5USD each and four of us climbed. It was terrible and if I'd known what it was going to be like I wouldn't have done it; dirty, steep, dark, narrow, dank... not fun.

Later we visited another mosque and the central market - I bought a lovely scarf.

In the afternoon we had several options so we chose relaxing. Kendall slept and I read the rest of my book (The Girl Who Kicked The Hornet's Nest). Had dinner at a local restaurant with an Uzbeki fashion parade which was quite good.

My left leg hurts from climbing the damn minaret.

Silk Road Day 19: Samarkand

We got back on the train after breakfast and travelled to Samarkand. We visited the Gur Emir Mausoleum, where Tamarlane is buried, in the afternoon. The buildings are most impressive with lovely mosaics and patterns.

Dinner at our hotel was... interesting. Uzbek food is not quite to my taste. I had two desserts (dry cake) to try and fill the hole. After dinner we went to Registan Square for a special light show. I am not sure if this is a regular thing or a special event put on for Captain's Choice; either way it was spectacular.

Our hotel leaves a lot to be desired. We have two single beds and mine is on a 10 degree slant. Bedding consists of a blanket and a sheet, and what feels like a sack of flour for a pillow. This is their version of a four star hotel :)

Silk Road Day 18: Tashkent

I woke up this morning with a headache and it got progressively worse during the day. By lunchtime I could hardly see so when we got to the hotel I went straight to bed. Spent the afternoon throwing up and had to get the doctor to give me an injection to stop, so that I could keep some painkillers down. Not a good day. Kendall looked after me very well though.

I vaguely remember seeing some impressive mosques in the morning.

Obviously I can take photos with my eyes closed now :)

I was able to eat some soup about 9.30pm so hopefully I'll be okay for the trip to Samarkand tomorrow.

The next big thing

In exactly six months from today, the boy and I will be embarking on our next big adventure. We'll be travelling on the Silk Road by private train. The marvellous people at Captain's Choice Tours are organising this all for us, and all we have to do is show up at the airport with our passports on the right day at the right time.

You can click on this link to see the full itinerary - four weeks of it - and meanwhile you can look at this map (sorry it's not a big larger) to see the route we will be travelling.


Why yes, we are excited, thanks very much for asking.